…mhhh, what can I say, although it’s the 12th and not friday the 13th, luck was not really on my side today.
The swell has picked up in the morning and as there was no wind – in fact it was glassy, simply perfect for surfing or in my case: SUP’in – I went out with the stand up paddle board. I had great fun until this monster set munched me and gave me a good 3 wave-beat-up….grrrr, pretty hardcore, when I finally came back up there was quite a bit of blood flowing down my leg…grrrr, not quite sure whether it was the fin, the paddle or the reef that I had hit before the wave spat me back out, whatever, it does not make a difference, it’s part of the game, right and be much worse!? ..still a bummer, though, as my wound healing is pretty bad, thank God, one of my mates who was right there at the spot with me was a doctor – nevermind the fact he’s a veterinary – and he gave me this ‘wonder remedy’ that should help it heal way faster and the scar won’t make a difference (for the ones who know my chins, they know e x a c t l y what I’m referring to here). still: hold your thumbs guys, cause I certainly do not wanna stay out of the water, afterall I have only just arrived in Western Australia and am frothing for more action: surf, SUP, kite no matter the weather, there’s always something to play around here 🙂